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Post by b2200diesel on Mar 11, 2014 3:52:57 GMT -5
Hi everyone, my truck won't start. It ran fine just prior to no start. It's a 1983 Mazda B2200 diesel. When I try to start it, sometimes I see little tiny wisps of white smoke out the exhaust, and I hear no combustion.
Checked glow plugs; they have continuity and .2 ohms each.
Moved on to check fuel. I unscrewed an injector, cranked the engine, and no fuel came out at all. Tried it with the other injectors, same result. Pressure guage shows nothing.
I only see one wire leading to the fuel injection pump, and it has 12.8v. Tomorrow I will check that it has a proper ground, and listen and feel for the fuel pump operating. I could really use some help here, I depend on this truck to make a living, don't have money to take it to a shop, and I don't know why the hell it suddenly won't start.
So I have some questions:
1. Could it be the fuel cut valve? I've got the manual here but it doesn't really tell me anything about how to troubleshoot the injector pump or fuel cut off solenoid.
2. If something inside of the fuel injector pump is broken, like a diaphragm, how screwed am I? I haven't been able to find parts or replacements online. Could I put on a generic injector pump?
3. Is there a lift pump? The manual only mentions this one injector pump, mounted on the side of the engine
4. How can I test the fuel pump other than what I did above?
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Post by 83rangerguy on Mar 11, 2014 11:43:43 GMT -5
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Post by gradyc on Mar 11, 2014 14:16:20 GMT -5
If you have someone turn the key on and off for you you should be able to hear and feel the plunger in the cutoff valve clicking. It could be sticking. There is a small plunger and spring in the valve that can easily be taken out to clean.
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Post by moroza on Mar 11, 2014 23:59:19 GMT -5
The valve you mention is a solenoid that opens when voltage is applied. I've seen them fail on various 1-wire diesels (they're the one wire), and they are cheap and straightforward to remove, bench-test, and replace if necessary. I bet that's your problem, mainly because I have not seen injection pump internals fail suddenly.
Another common cause of random diesel issues is a clogged fuel filter. How old is yours?
There is no factory lift pump that I'm aware of, and a healthy 4.135 doesn't need one to run well.
Fixing injection pump internals is a job for a specialist (or at least someone with a lot of time, motivation, general mechanical competence, and a budget for failure). Rebuilds are typically 500-1000 with a warranty.
You can't use a generic injection pump, mostly because the mounting flanges and input shaft are not generic. But according to various research I've done (including consultation with my local diesel specialist), your Diesel Kiki pump is a licensed copy of the ubiquitous Bosch VE pump, which means internal parts should be standardized and therefore plentiful. The hard part is installing them correctly.
Where are you located?
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Post by 83rangerguy on Mar 12, 2014 11:28:56 GMT -5
The valve you mention is a solenoid that opens when voltage is applied. I've seen them fail on various 1-wire diesels (they're the one wire), and they are cheap and straightforward to remove, bench-test, and replace if necessary. For future reference is the fuel cut-off solenoid available in the aftermarket? I looked on both Napa's and Rockauto's website and couldn't find it?? |
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Post by gradyc on Mar 12, 2014 19:44:19 GMT -5
I think the one for the VW or Dodge Cummins wil also fit.
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Post by b2200diesel on Mar 12, 2014 20:22:11 GMT -5
Hey, thank you all so much for replying. I'm off to get a new fuel filter; I don't know how old this one is and I've been running near empty.
Grady, I'll do that, thanks. Thanks 83rangerguy, reading now
Moroza, thank you very much for the info. If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, I'll pull out that solenoid and bench test.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Mar 13, 2014 16:46:17 GMT -5
When you say you unscrewed and injector, did you disconnect the line to an injector? or did you 1) disconnect the line; and, 2) remove the injector?
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Post by b2200 diesel on Mar 15, 2014 22:10:32 GMT -5
I unscrewed the line from the injector, come to think of it. I could see fuel in the top of the injector where the line goes in.
I changed the fuel filter; full of brown murky nuts. Bled air at fuel filter, unscrewed the line from an injector, still no fuel squirting out. there was a drip of fuel though.
I pulled off the shutter valve to get to the fuel solenoid but the brilliant engineers made it so that it is impossible to get a wrench around the nut of the fuel cut solenoid. Guess I'll start pulling off parts to get to it because at this point my prime suspects are the fuel cut solenoid or worse, the mechanical fuel pump. Gonna call ford and ask some questions
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Post by DieselDavo on Mar 22, 2014 20:58:19 GMT -5
If the interior light fuse is blown you will get no 12 volts to the fuel cut solenoid.
Also check to see if you have 10.5 volts or better at the glows when you first turn on the key. Use a light bulb with wires if you have no volt meter.
If the valves are tight the engine will start hard when cold.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Apr 5, 2014 8:54:10 GMT -5
Good luck with Ford. They will likely look at your sideways. Although who knows - you could run into the one sentimentalist witha passion for the old days.
It sounds to me like you will want to sleuth out the low pressure side of the fuel system completely. Get the gunk and 'nuts' out of the system from tank and pick-up to the solenoid. May be acquire a hand vacuum pump and save some wear and tear on the IP vane. Hard to say what all can be hanging out in a tank and getting sucked up the line. There are kinds of algae that thrive in fuel tanks!
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Post by David Woodard on Jun 11, 2014 13:22:03 GMT -5
Hi all. I have in my driveway what is left of a 1983 mazda diesel b2200. The transmission (the second one) broke and I just dont have the resources or time to keep working on it. I hate to just send it to the junk yard and thought someone might want to buy it. For questions email me at djwoodard66@gmail.com. Thanks.
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Post by b2200 diesel on Sept 13, 2014 23:45:18 GMT -5
So, I fixed it. It was my glow plug relay. I put in a generic starter solenoid with a switch. It starts up every time, but I have to hold the glow button for 30 seconds - this doesn't make sense to me because it used to start faster, so now I'm wondering if something is wrong. Gonna pull the plugs, check voltage and see how they glow and check compression.
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Post by Wahenika on Sept 14, 2014 14:21:23 GMT -5
So, I fixed it. It was my glow plug relay. I put in a generic starter solenoid with a switch. It starts up every time, but I have to hold the glow button for 30 seconds - this doesn't make sense to me because it used to start faster, so now I'm wondering if something is wrong. Gonna pull the plugs, check voltage and see how they glow and check compression.How would go about installing a manual glow plug switch that I can hold on for 30 seconds or more? Thanks |
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Post by Wahenika on Sept 14, 2014 14:24:04 GMT -5
Not sure how to post on here, but my question is how to go about installing a manual glow plug switch so I can keep them on longer.
Thanks
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