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Post by 83rangerguy on Sept 15, 2014 12:01:35 GMT -5
I don't have a manual switch on my gp's but isn't 30 seconds too long to heat them? I heard they will burn up with full battery voltage for 30sec? I know the factory timer only heats them for 6sec at 12v then the voltage drops......sometimes when it's very cold here (Alaska) like 10..20 below I have to cycle the gp's 2...3 times to start, I thought about a manual switch to heat them longer than the factory 6sec but never installed one....did your gp's burn up?
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Post by notpicky on Sept 22, 2014 18:16:29 GMT -5
My controller wasn't working on my 84 ranger. So I ran 12 volt wire to a push button and then to the purple wire at the controller behind the passenger kick panel. I've been holding them for 15 to 20 seconds so far they haven't burned up
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Post by ol83rangerxlt on Sept 23, 2014 10:31:41 GMT -5
You can use a toggle switch (which I don't recommend, in fear of forgetting to turn it off, and there by burning out the glow plugs) I use a push button mounted close to the high idle pull knob and hold the push button for ten seconds and then hit the starter, pull the knob and hold the push button for another ten seconds, or longer depending on how cold it is. This should work for you. Try it you might like it.
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Post by 83rangerguy on Sept 24, 2014 18:01:54 GMT -5
If the GP's can tolerate 20-30sec bursts of energy without burning up I wonder why the factory timer only heats them for 6sec??? I might install a momentary switch on mine, I agree a toggle switch is a bad idea, especially if you're forgetful like me lol.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Sept 25, 2014 7:44:52 GMT -5
Don't use a toggle. Use a high amperage (edit: high-amp unless using the relay) push-button. With relay or not, use 2-3 second bursts with a 2 sec. pause in between for as long as it takes. This system worked fine and didn't burn any plugs like the prior approach. Even cold with no block heat at -25C (-13f) it was sufficient, mind you I'd be at it for longer period. Call me crazy but I might try to re-establish the brain-box on the current current project.
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Post by b2200 diesel on Sept 28, 2014 13:56:43 GMT -5
Wahenika, what I did is I removed my glow plug relay[GPR], then took the two bigger wires that used to go to the GPR and attached them on either side of a beefy starter solenoid. Ask the auto store guy how to do it, it was surprisingly simple. It's just a big switch. Then all you have to do is get a little switch and give it power to the correct post on the solenoid [ask the auto store guy he showed me] www.honestcharley.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/c/hc-902-b6a11450a-solenoid.jpgI got a solenoid that looks like this. The two outermost posts are where your glow plug relay wires go to, one on either side. Then the two middle smaller posts, you just give 12v power to the right one and leave the left one alone.
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Post by b2200 diesel on Sept 28, 2014 14:01:02 GMT -5
Post by 83rangerguy on Sep 24, 2014 at 4:01p "If the GP's can tolerate 20-30sec bursts of energy without burning up I wonder why the factory timer only heats them for 6sec???"
Yeah, that's why I don't understand why the manual gp relay won't start the truck with only 6 seconds, it takes 20 seconds minimum. I'm wondering if it has lost compression.
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Post by B2200Diesel83 on Mar 23, 2015 4:13:14 GMT -5
" Get the gunk and 'nuts' out of the system from tank and pick-up to the solenoid." -Lmao, autocorrect on the board turned it from b.s. [horse crap] to "nuts".
Hi Wahenika, B2200diesel here. All you do is pull off the glow plug relay, take the two larger wires, cut off the connector, and put them on either side of a starter relay [commonly called a starter solenoid]. Find with your voltmeter a wire that only shows voltage when key is on. Twist a wire into that voltage source, and then run it through the firewall into the cab. Get any kind of small momentary, normally open switch, and twist on the wire to the switch. Take some more wire, twist it onto the other side of the switch, and connect the other end to switch post on your solenoid, usually the smaller post on the right. If you did it correctly, when grounded through the mount, press the button and your starter solenoid will click, and let through full amperage to your glow plugs. There is a second glow plug relay too, I think one is afterglow [lower voltage] and one is pre-glow [higher voltage/amperage].
Still wondering why the glow plugs take 30 seconds to glow red hot, it shouldn't take that long. I suspect all 4 plugs are the wrong type. Gonna clean out the tank, adjust the valves, troubleshoot the butterfly valve on the rebreather and the positive crankcase ventillation valve to see if the white smoke on cold start issue clears up.
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Post by Kent on Mar 3, 2018 10:13:52 GMT -5
I have a Mazda b2200 diesel set up for marine application and when I start it up it revs wide open and have no response on the throttle wondering if something is stuck in the pump any help would be appreciated
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Post by 83rangerguy on Mar 3, 2018 15:02:29 GMT -5
I have a Mazda b2200 diesel set up for marine application and when I start it up it revs wide open and have no response on the throttle wondering if something is stuck in the pump any help would be appreciated The governor inside the pump might be stuck.
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Post by Kent on Mar 6, 2018 13:06:41 GMT -5
Thanks I'll have someone look at that is there any place that sells injector pumps having a hard job locating one
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Post by 83rangerguy on Mar 7, 2018 13:42:53 GMT -5
Thanks I'll have someone look at that is there any place that sells injector pumps having a hard job locating one There are shops that rebuild them but it's mighty expensive, upwards of $600-700 I have never rebuilt one but I've read it's not something the average Joe can do at home in his garage.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Mar 13, 2018 17:50:36 GMT -5
You can look at the governor without removal of the pump from the engine. The governor cap/aneroid comes off to display the governor wheel, weights, and lever assembly (which connects to the accelerator shaft coming through the cap by way of governor springs). The governor spring shaft slides into the lever assembly like so (not exactly as shown this is a different pump): Have a look here at how the pump goes: quietglow.com/dieselvanagon/Bosch_Pump/-RebuildLet me know if you want to walk through it.
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