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Post by TheDieseliminator on Aug 22, 2005 21:01:50 GMT -5
Hi all, finally bought the 1982 Mazda B2200 diesel pickup out of a junkyard local to my house. It's been there for at least a year and a half, but finally got some side money to buy it. Bought it for $400 and has a little less than 138,000 miles on her. Very educated on diesels and I know that's no miles on this diesel engine. I also have a 1982 Chevy LUV diesel with 233,000 miles, gets a consistent 38 mpg, and is still running strong. The truck shifts great in all 6 gears, is rusty, and will take some work to pass inspection here in Pennsylvania. Here in PA we have to get vehicles inspeced every year. But, **diesel vehicles are exempt from the emissions test**, which is always a great upside to having a diesel-powered vehicle. I have the factory 1982 Mazda pickup brochure that covers the B2200 diesel and I already know it will be a great truck. The next thing I want to buy is a 1982 Mazda B-Series factory shop manual to have as a guide to work on it. Not that it's a show truck, but I'll try to take some pictures of it and post them here. Thanks.
Salvy
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Aug 23, 2005 17:26:56 GMT -5
Congradulations on your new purchase. Im sure you will be hooked after getting it on the road and driving it daily. They were the best jap truck for the money in those days and gave you twice what Toyota did for less money. John.
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Post by TheDieseliminator on Aug 29, 2005 12:25:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the comment John. Like I said, I've known about the truck being there for awhile and also knew how great of a diesel truck it was. I've driven it a few miles already and it's without a doubt a great truck. Similar to my 1982 Chevy LUV diesel, but with its different features designed by Mazda. The diesel engine is nothing but awesome and is impressive like most 80's diesels were in the Japanese trucks. I have changed the oil in it with Shell Rotella 15W-40 oil and replaced both full-flow and bypass oil filters. The only thing that is stumping me now is that none of the warning/indicator lights come on in the instrument panel when you turn the key to glow plug the engine. When you're driving down the road and you change to high beams the indicator light comes on for that, but otherwise all other instrument panel lights don't come on when the ignition key is on "ON". Checked the fuse box on the driver's side under the hood and all fuses were good. And it was cool to find out that the truck uses tube style fuses, which I'm not used to. Had to order an air filter at AutoZone and will be in tomorrow. I hope to get some more work done and then get it inspected and legal to drive on the road. I appreciate the comments.
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Post by fred on Sept 3, 2005 23:20:35 GMT -5
While the fuses may be good the contacts might be corroded. Turn the key to on and go to fuse block and move each fuse a little in its holder.
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Post by TheDieseliminator on Sept 7, 2005 19:18:33 GMT -5
Fred, thank you for the help in your reply. The first thing I did was check the fuse box under the hood and there were no bad fuses or other problems. My friend and I were driving the truck around this past weekend and we stopped, turned off the truck, and went into the auto parts store to pick up the air filter I had ordered for the truck. We come back out and he goes to start the truck and it doesn't fire over like it reliably has. He would turn the key to "start" and get the good ol' clicking sound. So, it's obviously a bad connection on the battery and the cables needed to be moved on the battery terminals. After I got done moving the cables to the right place he tried to start it and it fired right up. So then we're driving down the road and I notice a warning light illuminated, fuel guage and temperature guage working, and low and behold I fixed my problem with the lights in the instrument panel. Oh yea and the warning light that came on was the sedimentor light, so I gotta get under the truck and drain 450 cc of water out of it until fuel starts to drain. Then seal it back up and will get to do that this weekend. Thanks for the replies.
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Sept 8, 2005 5:41:00 GMT -5
Be carefull of the drain valves on the sedimentor. They can break off if corroded. I just drilled mine out and put a brass radiator drain valve in and its perfect. The other thing to look for is the original molded battery terminal clamps. I always coat mine with vaseline and they look new but one day couldnt start the truck. Go to find out inside the clamp where its molded around the wire was all black and corroded so I installed brass marine cable clamps and havent had a problem since. Also clean or replace the ground connection under the alternator at the fender well. And lose that wimpy ground comming off the valve cover with a larger gauge wire. I replaced my fuse box and fuses with N.O.S and it was worth the cost. Im still trying to find a long bed liner in the CT area. John.
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