|
|
Post by Diesel Davo on Aug 10, 2005 10:20:58 GMT -5
Probably the plastic shift socket that's on the end of the stick inside the trans. Can check easy sort of. Just pull up the boot inside and 4 - 12 mm bolts takes out the stick and socket. There is some other link here for some place in Florida that sell them if yours is bad.
When I refill my trans I just pop the stick unit out and pore the oil in inside the cab.
Need pics Chuck?
|
|
|
|
Post by tempforce on Aug 10, 2005 10:57:40 GMT -5
no i've got it. i've had a mazda miata transmission apart.
i just needed to be pointed in the right direction.
thanks a bunch.
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Aug 11, 2005 15:10:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification, Mazdadiesel. That's definitely going to be my plan, get a used B2000 tranny, swap bellhousing and input shaft, a couple new bearings, and then rattle away into the sunset(through the cracks in the windshield). I'm a bit of a nube when it comes to transmissions. Could you explain why the input shaft needs to be swapped? What's different about it? I'm just trying to get as much of this as possible clarified in my mind before I'm holding oily parts and scratching my head. Any tips and information is much appreciated. Thanks a ton.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Aug 11, 2005 20:36:19 GMT -5
The splines on the shaft are differant because the diesel has a heavier duty clutch. The same one the RX7 used. Thats why it needs to be swapped.
|
|
|
|
Post by Diesel Davo on Aug 11, 2005 20:48:13 GMT -5
If the clutch disk disk for the diesel fits the gas shaft spline and the length is right check to see if it fits the pilot shaft bearing in the motor.
In other words ... if the "shoe" fits, wear it .....
Shop Manual doesn't show seprate pics for the diesel.
Just the 4 and 5 speed (B2000)......
Think the gas clutch is different than the diesel.
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Aug 16, 2005 10:17:26 GMT -5
I was looking through the transmission diagrams in my manual today and I'll admit I got a little intimidated. The pics were confusing to me because they did not have any reference for front or back and because of my inexperience with transmissions. It did not list an 'input shaft'. There was a 'main shaft' and another one that I don't recal the name listed. I was expecting to have to split the transmission to replace this input shaft but what worries me is having to remove the gears and bearings from this shaft for the swap. I want to replace as much of the transmission as possible as I know there was loose metal floating around in the bad one. Can anyone clarify this process at all for me? Also is there a gasket that needs to be replaced when the transmissions are split? Am I just making it sound harder than it is? Thanks again for all the help.
|
|
|
|
Post by DieselDavo on Aug 17, 2005 19:08:36 GMT -5
I just payed a guy in Maine $750 to put all new bearings in my 84. He pitched all my gaskets and assembled the trans with a thin coat of silicon gasket caulk. (I haven done a trans since I broke my back 26 year ago). Only trick I know is to keep the trans pointing straight up (Tail shaft down) and use heavy grease to stick any loose roller bearing inside cluster parts (like with universal cups rollers). You will need a real good set of clip ring pliers ( spreaders type).
You don have to split the trans to check the front shaft bearing and gear. Stand the trans on it tail and pop out the cover thats inside the bell housing and wiggle /pry the gear and bearing out. If the rollers are gray the bearing is bum. If the gear teeth have flat places then it's bum...
What was on the magnetic drain plug?
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Sept 8, 2005 22:02:33 GMT -5
So I got the tranny out of the truck with some difficulty. It's really a pain in the ass to get that starter out. I also had somewhat of a tough time getting the tranny to squeeze past the clutch pressure plate after I had it unbolted, maybe that's just me though. So next I removed the 8 long bolts which screw in from back to front and appear to hold the bellhousing on. I also removed the bearing retainer plate and two lockrings on the larger of the two bearings. What's next? Is it just silicone holding it together now or is there something I missed? I still can't picture how I am going to remove and swap the input shaft and my book is absolutely no help.
Also, when I removed the bearing retainer plate I noticed a bunch of damage on the plate in the smaller circle where the countershaft bearing fits. It looks like large ball bearings were loose in there and gouged into that area. There's no sign of them now. Any thoughts on what that might indicate? I truly appreciate any guidance you might be able to provide me.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Sept 10, 2005 15:37:50 GMT -5
I have now managed to get the bellhousing removed. I used some bits of wood to make a puller that held the rim of the bellhousing and pushed down on the end of the input shaft. You do have to remove the large retaining clip around the large bearing and then the bearings stay on the shaft and pull down out of the bellhousing.
Where I'm stuck now is figuring out how to remove and swap the input shaft. Does anyone have any pointers to share with me? The problem is that as I lift it off it runs into the bottom of the first gear on the countershaft and there isn't enough clearance to get it off. What am I missing? Do I have to remove the countershaft? If so how? It looks hard.
I was also wondering if the flywheels are the same gas/diesel. My thinking was that if I can't swap inputs I could use an aftermarket heavy-duty clutch meant for a gasser that would accomplish the same thing. I would rather swap shafts so any hints would be appreciated. Thanks,
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Sept 15, 2005 12:52:12 GMT -5
It seems that I'm just talking to myself at this point but here goes anyway. I did a little research with parts suppliers on the internet. While the gas and diesel Mazdas do use differenct clutches it appears that they will interchange without swapping the input shaft. The supplier gave the diameter of the shaft and the number of splines and both were the same. The only other thing that could be different would be the length and hopefully that won't be an issue. I'm going to get a used gas tranny next and I'll compare input shafts and the order a diesel clutch. Hopefully it will work with just the bellhousing swap because I can't figure out how to get that d**n input shaft off.
|
|
|
|
Post by tempforce on Sept 16, 2005 0:41:18 GMT -5
can you attach or pm me with photos of the 4 and 5 speed trannies. i'm currious if the transmission's are the same for the ford ranger. thanks.
cc
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Sept 17, 2005 13:42:53 GMT -5
So I went to go buy a B2000 tranny today and I had to back out at the last minute. THey were not the same and it did not look like the bellhousing swap would work. The gas tranny had the bellhousing bolted on with bolts inside the housing. On the diesel tranny I have there are long bolts that thread on the outside of the trans from the rear and screw into rear of the bellhousing. It's tough becuase the wreckers don't give you the opportunity to make a detailed comparison but it did not look to me like the swap would work. I am at my wits end here! I was getting set to make some serious progress this weekend and now this. Please help, if anyone can provide me with any information I would be most gratefull. Has no one done this before? I can't justify the $475 which is the only quote I've found for a used Diesel tranny.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ford on Sept 17, 2005 15:27:57 GMT -5
The shifter buzz is normal. I own an 83 Ford Ranger and have lived with it since new. A Ford service rep told me of a story when the Ranger Diesel was new. They had to go onto a 300 mile trip at 70mph and they had to wrap the shifter with the seat belt to quiet it down. I do the same thing on long trips.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Sept 18, 2005 12:33:39 GMT -5
Evergreen try emailing Kar King in Los Angeles. They import Jap engines and trans all the time. I bought a 20,000 mile trans for my diesel for about what your being quoted for a junk yard one. I couldnt justify it either but what would you rather have for $500.00?? I 20,000 mile one like new or a 150,000 mile one with problems in the near future? If you call them ask for Victor. I bought a 3.0 S2 from them for a conversion years ago. Dino has that truck now. 50,000 miles later and that B2000 conversion is still going strong! ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by Evergreen on Sept 19, 2005 9:47:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip. I'm waiting on a quote from a Mazda recycler in cali right now but I'm guessing it will be too high as well. Just to confirm, you swapped a complete diesel drivetrain into a gasser right? So you don't have any first-hand knowledge of tranny compatability? It's not impossible that the gears would fit inside the diesel cases or something but I can't pay for a tranny just to find out, only one little thing would have to be different . . . As it is I only have $150 in this truck and the body's so beat up it really hinders any investment argument I could make to justify spending$. The motor is high miles as well though it sure seemed to run well. Unless I come up with something soon the poor thing may be off to the crusher. Are there any parts anybody needs? I was planning on keeping the IP, though I'm not sure why. Thanks for all the help and please let me know if you can think of another option. Thanks.
|
|
