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Post by evergreen on Apr 5, 2005 7:50:21 GMT -5
Hey all,
I'm new here and very happy to find this forum. Last weekend I just picked up an '83 B2200 Diesel for $100. I know very little about diesels but I was looking for one because I am very interested in biodiesel. The truck is ugly and very beat up. I don't care. I'll cobble it together as necessary and maybe find a new body for it one day if it's worth it. The engine is supposed to be a runner but the alternator is out and it has a major oil leak from the vaccum pump on the back of the alternator. It has 312,000 miles. I am hoping to find that the engine has some life left and I can drive the thing soon. I am trying to be cautious with my expenditures and make sure it's worth the effort. Here is my first question: I tried to start the truck yesterday and it turned overand came to life but rattled loudly and would not idle. It also smoked alot. I am new to diesels so I am still trying to piece together what I've seen under the hood. With the vaccum pump leaking oil I thought it was worth suspecting that it wasn't making vaccum either. I followed a vaccum line to a little filter-looking thing by the air filter, then to a little sensor-thing with four wires going to it then to a control diaphram on the intake downstream of the air filter. Could somebody explain this system to me. I was under the impression that diesels didn't have throttles, which is why they need vaccum pumps. Could this system potentially be the reason the engine wouldn't run if it wasn't getting vaccum. Also, are these pumps available anywhere? Sorry for being long winded. Any feedback would be very much appreciated. Also, where can I find a service manual and are there any other books on diesel engine service you would recommend. Thanks again.
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Post by tempforce on Apr 7, 2005 15:53:49 GMT -5
i have a "83" ranger with the same engine. my vacuum pump line goes to a small reservoir, to a low vacuum sensor, and to the power brake booster. my vacuum pump is separate from the alternator, but i would guess that you have a bearing seal leaking,(it's not going to get better). these engines are noisy and may run rough when cold or if the fuel is old. the valves are mechanical and set cold about every 6-10,000 miles. i have a manual on the engine in pdf form. pm me. its a perkins diesel made by mazda the perkins # is 4.135. i just picked up a used engine from a wrecking yard yesterday. for the injection pump and other spare parts. lmc has some parts for this engine as well as other suppliers. you will get great mileage if you back off the throttle when your exhaust starts to smoke. the black smoke is wasted fuel. the only thing this engine could use is a turbo, but there isn't one available without building manifold adaptors ect. to install one. hope you get your truck running soon. here in oregon, the state raised taxes on diesel fuel because diesels get better fuel economy. they did it to hybreds as well. but that is anouther subject. cc
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Post by evergreen on Apr 8, 2005 7:45:29 GMT -5
I am in Oregon as well. The vaccum pump on my truck is mounted on the back of the alternator. Somewhere I read mention that it makes vaccum off of the oil flow. This seems possible because the unit is quite small, I'm not sure though. The engine seems to smoke for about 10 seconds after starting and then clears right up. I couldn't see any smoke coming out the back when I drove it (just around the block). The trouble is that some of that start-up smoke comes inside the cab. I'll have to address that. I also haven't seen the tragic oil leak that got this thing sold to me in the first place. There are a couple little drips that are worthy of attention (off the bypass filter for example) but nothing major, I guess I haven't had it all the way warmed up yet perhaps. The water in fuel light (?, it's the dripping faucet, right?) just came on. I tried to drain what I think is the seperator bowl but the tab broke off the knob. I'm kind of in the dark without a manual at this point. I wonder if I'll be able to find the correct vaccum pump if I end up needing one. I'm also considering switching to an electric pump if necessary. Where in Oregon are you? I'm in Eugene. Go biodiesel!
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Post by tempforce on Apr 8, 2005 9:17:47 GMT -5
i just picked up a junk yard dog, it has the bypass filter housing on it. i'm taking it off this weekend. i'll save the metal o-ring seals for you. will p.m. you if they are good.
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Apr 9, 2005 6:03:34 GMT -5
Evergreen, glad to hear of your new purchase. They are great little trucks and you will be hooked once you start driving it daily. The oil leak on the alt is because the o-ring on the pump flange is bad where it mounts to the back of the alt. check that first as its common. The smoke and rough running are normal on start up. Are you pulling the cold start knob out fully when starting? Also are all the glow plugs good? The water in fuel light looks like a small bowl. The faucet you mention is a low coolant level light. Pop off the radiator cap and check your level, it doesnt have to drop much to make that light work. There should also be a buzzer that comes on too, for water in fuel, low coolant level, and low brake vacuum. The low brake vacuum light is shared with the parking brake so if your brake is off and the light stays on your loosing vacuum. What I did on my water separator was to drill that drain plug out and tap new threads and fit a brass radiator drain valve in. Works much better and drains faster, dont forget to loosen the vent tap on top when draining. The Rangers had a better idea. A tee handle behind the seat, made life easy. The intake valve you mention is just a shutter and was only on 1982-83. My 84 doesnt have one. Its only there to block the flow of air on shut down so the engine comes to rest instantly but I guess they figured it wasnt needed that much and stopped it. Im also looking for a real good radiator for my truck if anyone knows of one. John.
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Post by evergreen on Apr 11, 2005 7:34:34 GMT -5
Great. Thanks for your input. Are the o-rings for the vaccum pump available? I'm assuming that it's a special shape. Is it still available from Mazda or aftermarket? It had been suggested by someone in the know on Toyota diesels that the dripping faucet was water in fuel (their best guess) but I did just notice that there was another light that looked more like water in fuel. Do you know where the sensor for low water level is located. At first I thought that's what it was so I checked the coolant and it was full. I added some water to bring up the level in the overflow tank but the radiator was full. I just don't want to ignore something important (like a water pump problem). I would also like to fix that light as it is good insurance on such an old engine. I didn't know about a cold start knob. That's how in the dark I am. I guess it's a good sign that it started anyway. It has smoked dramatically less the couple other times I have started it so it's showing some improvement. I have to give it some gas to get it to fire and then it smokes for about 15 seconds and then clears up. The smoke leaks into the cab, though. The idle seems low when it's cold. Would the cold start knob be on the left-hand side of the steering wheel? I have a shaft there with no knob on it. Overall I'm feeling pretty good about my purchase. None of the oil leaks have been as major as I was told so far. Maybe after it warms up all the way it gets worse? I just wish the body wasn't so bad, but I guess it wouldn't have been so cheap. I just have to get another car out of my driveway and I'll be ready to dig into my new diesel. ;D
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Apr 11, 2005 18:06:44 GMT -5
The low coolant level sender is on top of the radiator in the center. Unplug it and see if the light goes out. The cold start knob is all the way to the left on the dash. The metal rod is where the knob was. Take a small vise grips and pull it out all the way and twist it slightly to the right to lock it. Then try starting it, run it with this out for several minutes to let it warm up then push it in. The knob and screw, and o-ring and maybe even the coolant level sender may still be available from Mazda. Might be worth a call to your local dealer. ;D
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Post by TheDieseliminator on Apr 12, 2005 8:01:14 GMT -5
Did the 82 Mazda B2200 diesel have the cold start knob or is it special to the 83 and 84 model years? Is the cold start knob somewhat of a throttle like what is on a diesel tractor?
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Post by DieselDavo on Apr 16, 2005 15:09:42 GMT -5
The cold start knob both advances the injector timing and pushes the idle up a bit. You should only need this on cold 30 degrees or less days. If you truck starts on all 4 but dies at an idle chances are it sucking air from a totten fuel line or connection. The Vacume pump is part of the alternator as the rear furface is machined for the vane pump.
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Post by evergreen on Apr 20, 2005 6:46:25 GMT -5
I was wondering what kind of fuel mileage you guys are getting with your trucks. Are any of you using bio? I also wondered if anyone knew if five speed transmissions are available anywhere. What about 4wd conversions? I'm guessing that you would be on your own for that but I'm just curious. Thanks for all the helpfull information. Any updates on a PDF manual? Thanks.
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on Apr 20, 2005 19:06:16 GMT -5
Salvy the cold start knob should always be used when starting a cold engine as it will misfire until the cylinders heat up plus it also raises the idle for quicker warm ups. I turned the screw in almost to the end and when I have the knob out all the way the engine runs about 1800 rpms which is perfect for warming and charging the battery back up quickly also.
Whats wrong with your tranny? Five speeds can be found in bone yards online, most have tons of miles and arent any better than what you have. I have a used 5spd that needs an input shaft bearing for sale and also a used engine for parts.
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Post by tempforce on Apr 20, 2005 23:13:21 GMT -5
i'm using a blend of bio and #2, i got up to 80% bio and was having hard starting problems, in the mornings. only low 50's'f. cycling the glow plugs several times helped, but not enough. going back to 50% or less bio. the engine runs better on the highway with bio and is quieter. can't wait untill i get the bed tank built. i'll use a high % blend or wvo in the heated bed tank and straight #2 in the stock tank. has anyone installed a turbo on one of these 2.2 diesel's???
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Post by evergreen on Apr 22, 2005 14:13:36 GMT -5
I haven't gotten very far into this project as I'm still trying to shuffle all of my projects to get this one towards the top of my list. I'm mostly trying to gather information as I know very little about this truck and I want to be well informed when I go about getting this baby back on the road. Ex. it's amazing how much better it started once I found out there was a cold start knob. Knowledge is power. I was told that fifth gear is out on my tranny, that's why I asked about availabilty. I haven't had it up fast enough to see for myself yet. Does anyone know of a reliable place to buy a service manual without paying an arm and a leg? Also, what is the oil capacity, so I know how much to buy when I get around to changing the oil. Thaks so much for all your help. This site is a great resource for someone as in the dark as myself.
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Post by DieselDavo on Apr 25, 2005 5:43:11 GMT -5
Motor is 6.5 US Quarts with stock Filters, about 6 with the smaller bypass filter.
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Post by Mazdadieselsrule on May 14, 2005 8:10:48 GMT -5
I heard a long time ago that there is a larger optional full flow oil filter for the 2.2 Ranger diesel. Not sure if it will hit the oil cooler hoses as the Ranger had the housing moved to the rear of the engine. Wouldnt hurt to have the extra capacity.
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