Bypass filter week #1

[Dave]

It's been almost a week since my motor
has fired up. still looking for a new bypass filter part
so the bypass filter itself can thread on snug and tight.
contains verious high pressure lines that also need
new copper seals (actually washers).
getting the seals are cheap and easy.

about a week ago, oil started leaking badly.
after a clean up in the drive way that looked like
something from an exxon val de oil spill.

so even a new bypass oil filter will not thread on tight.
I thought about bypassing the bypass oil system,
but this could lead to more future problems.

so the hunt continues... *sigh*






the last photo shows a clean up in progress still.

[Davotoo]

Did you bugger up the threads on the bypass flange?

Those washers are Aluminium and need to be filed flat with a large fine file on the faces.

Sure the hose ends arn't leaking?

Remember the bypass filter dosn't have any valve in it so oil will go eather way through it BUT the full flow does. There are kits to relocate any filter. I found one on google.com for my brother when he put a engine in a late Ford Ranger.

[Dave]

honestly no i did not bugger the threads up,
the last oil change i noticed the threads had
a bit of slop in them. this time when i examined the oil
leak (was minor at the time) i thought, ahh the oil filter gasket probally getting a bit gummy this year (alot of miles put on it this winter) so i thought id give'r a treat and a good filter, oil change for the summer..

and sure enough the threads are so sloppy this year,
it wont even snug up... dammit...

so.. yeah i need a new one, iv seen such re-location
type kit-part as you mentioned at a local farm type store. its called TSC (sell everything from drugs for horses, to tractor fuel tanks, filters, nuts and bolts, feed, and vegitable seed. you name it, if a farmer needs
they have it... they sell things that canadian tire (motomaster parts) dosn't.. odd and somewhat exotic
parts and items.

yes, almost pushing to the 4rth year i have owned this truck. this is the worse thing that has happened.
*knock on wood*

I know the seals on the high pressure lines are aluminum. but i think im gonna swap them out for copper. copper tends to hold a better grip/bite when compressed, and does a better job than aluminum.

besides, probally the only replacement seals ill be able to find is in copper.

Pay day is this sat. ;D

maybe go for a cruise sunday if the weather is nice..
the motor is begging for excercise.

and on a side note... i have a plug beside the engine block on the passenger side, where one of the high pressure lines come off of, i think this is where i could
possibly install a 'Oil Pressure Guage' since its right at the oil level.. would be a nice thing to have,
plus i also liked the idea of having a tach to see what
the engine is really revving at while shifting throught the gears.. it maybe possible to wire this up fmor the alternator (feed cable connection) herd about this on some diesels before.

well, thanks for the feed back Davo,
what are your thought's on this?

Dave.

[Davotoo]

Dave:

If you can get the gasket to kiss the flange and then give it 2/3 of a turn with a wrench then the bypass is OK. Most likely the high pressure line end has gone bad. I can't believe that you have 2 problems at once.

Looks like the rubber line end is leaking on to the bypass. These ends go south on the cooler lines also and the fastest way to fix them is to take the bad line off and hacksaw the crimp collar so that it can be removed shorten the rubber line and pit on a hose clamp or two.

Be carefull not to hacksaw any thing except the collar!

I see your dipstick has the typical leak. I'll send you a scan of the bypass.

[Davotoo]

Ford Rangers with this same engine didn't have a bypass filter or an oil cooler.

If you want; Just find a nut or something to make up the space in the high pressure end where the line all bolt into the block and try running it that way.
Don't bypass the line going to the ass end of the alternator. You need this to oil the vacumme pump....

Ask you local tractor place about fixing hydralic line ends thay may be able to help. I haven't seen a bucket loader or backhoe yet that didn't have bum hose ends.

[Davotoo]

Hey Dave:

I have a junk truck with a Bypass and hoses ect. Trouble is it's parked in Maine about 40 miles away and the wife would have to strip it off the motor. Think you could make it worth her while

Oh: BTW the board is a little goofy today (no Icons)..

[Dave]

ya... weird..
ya this morning i actually bypassed the bypass filtering system, so it dumps the goodys back into the oil pan.
just to park it down the road (less than a mile)
she started up good for something thats been sitting for over a week. (not bad for a 2 glow plugger)

i'll get back to you on that later this evening.
off to work....

[Davotoo]

I really think you should have capped off both lines.

The oil restrictor hole was probably in the filter housing. You may have low oil pressure and not know it. Only takes 7 to 15 PSI to kill the idot light on the dash.

Think it is easy to find parts for a 1999 Chevy PU???

A friend of mine can't get front rotor dust sheilds (round sheet metal behind brake rotors) Chevy dosn't have them and only supplys parts for 3 years. $19,000 for a truck and no support! He's no better offf than we are!

[Dave]

update....

all fixed up and can go anywhere (mechanicaly)
may not be exactly street legal yet.. but she's getting there. this new bypass filter setup actually holds almost a quart of oil.. (almost) it's actually over kill...
from the original. this setup is ment for a tractor diesel.
but... seems to work good so far... no leaks!!! ;D
after about 15 minutes of just idling the filter gets rather warm... is this normal??

[Davotoo]

As long as it's cooler than the thermostat goose neck (water at top of head) it's fine. Probably run cooler at 40 mph whan ait is going through the cooler!

[Dave]

ya cause the bypass filter originaly was bolted to the block, the block may have acted as a heat sink???
but the old motor isn't tired, the beef'er oil filter it likes....
alot more oil now is flowing into the pan... which can't
be a bad thing...

now time to get that safety certificate..
(drags the arc welder out) *sigh*

[Davotoo]

Hey Dave:

New fenders here $41 each US
www.partstrain.com/cgi-bin/pt/index?mv_session_id=X8b2cgBA&mv_pc=38&cat=ALL&year=1984&make=MAZDA&model=PICKUP

How's the new Bypass working out? What did it cost for the kit and filter?

[Dave]

lol...well

works great...
infact i think its better, theres about
an extra quart of oil flowing through the motor
becuase of the massive size of the oil filter...
dosnt take long for that oil to pump through, the original
hoses where kinda dinky, compared to these high pressure steel braided llines and fittings i have jurry rigged up. and it works good..

reason i grin, is lets take a break down in price (to best of my memory)

$4 rags
$20 (roughly for decent oil)
$$ (my time)
$$ trips into town, grrrrr
$20 misc. brass fittings..
$14 oil filters.
$26 bypass oil filter kit.
$24 high pressure lines
$14 jack daniels (cuss words and patients later that night)
then days later an exxon val de oil clean up.

from a simple oil change to a nice price tag of about
mmmm $120+ dollars...
lol