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Post by 44toy on Apr 9, 2004 18:47:10 GMT -5
I am the guy that bought the diesel mazda truck off ebay. I got it for $400, talked to the guy over the phone and we agreed for me to hit buy it now $600 on the auction but I would only have to pay $400. Body is pretty staight but has some surface rust and some holes. Picked up 6 very good used tires from a garage for $40, they also have a junker the same color as this truck that they will let me have most all the parts off of it I want including the tail gate--for the camper top off the one I got off ebay?
The ebay truck starts ever time very easy, runs smooth, pulls strong, does not seem to burn oil? Gonna run a compression test as soon as I get a gauge that will work, the interior is dated but in good shape. Any way you turn it I have got about $500 in a good running truck that with a saturday of body work and some paint would look pretty good. However I have a 95 toyota with a blowed motor that would like to have a diesel in it. May invent the mazota diesel.
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Post by Dave on Apr 14, 2004 20:07:00 GMT -5
nice.. you pretty much stole it for that price..  should get alot of trouble free years and miles out of it. plus the fuel economy is great. one thing though, avoid over reving a diesel and high speeds. ;D |
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Post by 44toy on Apr 15, 2004 6:23:39 GMT -5
I put a rear axle from toyota truck with (3.58 gears?) I think it really need higher gears to run on the highway. It seems a little to high of a gear though and I am probably going to look for an axle with a little bit lower ratio.
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Post by Dave on Apr 15, 2004 17:32:42 GMT -5
hmm, thats something i never considered doing.. be really nice to lose my 6 bolt axels. and have 5 stud gm style (so many rims and applications would fit) it would be nice. but im not sure if the horse power to high rear-end gear ratio would balance? (engine labour's often?) let me know how you make out..curious.. sounds like a good idea you have.. i know the stock rear-end and over all gear ratios seem kinda low... great for hualing/lugging things... but highway trips reguire doing the speed limit. and... who does that??  |
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Post by Davotoo on Apr 15, 2004 19:53:55 GMT -5
My brother stuck his motor and trans in a gas Mazda 1984 B2000 (What a lot of work) which had 3.32 rear gears so that 4 was like 5 with the diesel. Problem was the 5th or overdrive gear didn't like it one bit. Cost him $750 with most of our spare gears (ball berring fell in one) to fix it. Try not to use 5th. 4th is really not a gear it just connects the pilot shaft to the tail so all the gears are allong for the ride. If the trans starts to get real loud in all gears except 4th then it's time for berrings or time to look for another trans!
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Post by Dave on Apr 15, 2004 20:26:58 GMT -5
the gear ratio in 4th is that direct?
what are the gear ratio numbers? im curious.
i always noticed, after shifting from 3rd to 4th, then rolling along and shifting into 5th, there isn't much notice. although i have no rpm guage (would like to jurry rig one up somday) to find out whats really going on exactly.
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Post by TheDieseliminator on Apr 16, 2004 22:45:06 GMT -5
How reliable are the 5-speed transmissions in the 1982-1984 Mazda diesel pickups? What is the max number of miles you would get out of the original one in the truck, before replacing it with another trans or rebuilding the one that has problems?
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Post by Davotoo on Apr 17, 2004 18:12:01 GMT -5
About 300K depending on how much you haul arround. Mazda doesn't recommend towing anything.
When in 1984 I got my first truck new I knew about the tender overdrive. My older brother got one 3 months later and took a trip to Yellow Stone from NH towing a 14 foot trailer with food water ect. On the way home his 5 or overdrive started to whine then growl ...He made it back in 4 th and got Mazda to cover it under the warrantee, after that the trans towed the same rig to Texas but he didn't use 5th. That Trans lasted to 330k miles before it blew.
What kills ball berrings is skating. Thats when there's no load on them and the center race turns faster than the ball surface. Thick grease will save gears and kill unloaded berrings. We should probably run 50w oil in the winter and 80w-90w in the summer.............
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Post by dieseldork64 on May 2, 2004 9:11:37 GMT -5
Hi folks, not new to the forum,just new to reply for once ;D I have a rust free 1984 Mazda B2200 and hope to keep it going for years and years. It has 144,000 on it and I just replaced the trans with a 35,000 mile one. BTW 44toy,would you be interested in selling the a/c setup out of your Mazda if you put the engine in your Toyota? Im also looking for a long bed bedliner if anyone knows of one for sale and also the cleats on the outside of the bed. BTW this is my second one. The first was an 83 I bought new and drove it 579,000 miles before it rotted in half. I drove it the same way I drive this one, keep it wound up tight on the highway,they love it. I know a friend that had an 83 years ago and blew 5th gear and used to keep it to the floor on the pike in 4th for about 200,000 before he sold it. John.
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Post by 44toy on May 2, 2004 15:26:40 GMT -5
I would be glad to sell the ac but the compressor is gone. If you want the rest i'll sell it.
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Post by dieseldork64 on May 2, 2004 16:28:35 GMT -5
The comp is no prob it was a common one. Are all the other components there? Brackets,idler,evap,cond,wiring,extra sheave on crank pulley,etc. If its all there and just a comp is needed I would be interested because the other stuff is tough to find by itself. How much? Thanks.John.
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Post by Dave on May 2, 2004 16:50:38 GMT -5
Hey DieselD...
you might be able to find an after market kit,
or if you feel ambitious, cobble up something from another make/model...??
worth a try, either way aslong as your connections are good'n tight, your good to go for the summer.
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Post by 44toy on May 3, 2004 6:30:47 GMT -5
I will have to look to see if everything else is there. I belive so, The worst part will be removing all the stuff. If there is an email address I can get in touch with you at let me know and I will check and get you a price.
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Post by Davotoo on May 3, 2004 9:28:36 GMT -5
Don't need the crank pully as they all have an open space you will need the fast idle diaphram for the pump and the solinoid vacuum actuator and maybe an extra 12 volt fan on the condenser (conect it to the same wire on the compressor clutch). Also a turbo would be nice for the times you are going up hill with the air on ;D
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Post by dieseldork64 on May 3, 2004 17:51:49 GMT -5
Thats right I forgot about the spare sheave on the crank pulley. I remember too about the fast idle pot on the pump. They didnt have an electric fan though,the clutch fan worked well and kept them cool enough. Speaking of those I was lucky enough to find the last OEM fan clutch in the country and installed it 3 months ago. Right now I need to yank the radiator and have it recored as its 1/4 blocked and runs a tad warm after flat out runs on the pike. That and a few other parts and I should be in good shape. 44toy you can email me at DEEZLJOHN@aol.com to talk about the truck parts. Thanks again .John.
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