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Post by wayne83 on Feb 12, 2015 20:53:58 GMT -5
I was wondering if anyone has a mechanical gauge on there ranger or mazda 2.2 diesel? If anyone does, what does it read for a high and low at operating temperature? The book says at operating temperature 57psi or more at 3600 rpm and safe minimum at idle is 4.3 +/- 1.3 psi. I have been having an issue recently when i first start the truck in the morning, the needle on the dash takes almost one whole minute before it even starts to raise up. During that one minute, it sounds like the engine is being starved of oil(clanking and rattling) and as soon as the needle starts to rise after a minute the sounds completely change and almost fade away. After the first start of the day, it picks up oil pressure immediately when it starts and holds it just fine. Now that being said, I know i can not go off the factory gauge so i put a mechanical gauge on it(i just unhooked the hose going to sensor so its reading off the exact same spot as factory). I have not let it set over night and start it to see if it says zero or not, as i just put it on now, but at operating temp at idle i was reading 64psi. I know the adjustment screw on the side of block, and its very possible it is off because it was removed when engine was rebuilt, but my question is do you turn it in or out to lower the pressure? I would imagine I would turn it out as that would allow more oil flow, but less pressure as pressure is a restriction to flow in the first place. I would imagine turning it in would decrease flow and increase pressure but i could be totally wrong with each other those ideas. Has anyone ever played with the adjustment screw and knows what way i need to turn it so i lower my oil pressure? I will be gone a few days so when i get back i will start it and see what it says on the mechanical gauge at first start up, and then after it reaches operating temp i will adjust it as necessary to what the manual says it should be. On the chance it does say zero at start up, but then is good every time after that for the day, any ideas on what could be causing that?
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Post by gradyc on Feb 12, 2015 21:35:12 GMT -5
The pressure relief valve is in the cover of the oil pump, NOT the side of the block. There is a bolt on the right side of the block with a lock nut that looks like an adjustment but it is the retainer bolt for the oil pump. If it is loosened the pump will start to move. The wise move would be to take the pan down and check the pickup pipe and cross-feed pipe.
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Post by wayne83 on Feb 12, 2015 22:14:08 GMT -5
well darn. I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the engine again to find out the issue. I just remembered it being referred to as a adjustable oil pump via the bolt and lock nut on side of block. I guess that would explain why there isn't any information on adjusting the oil pressure in any manuals that I have. what's the purpose of it being a stud with a lock nut on it though instead of just a regular bolt with a tapered end to hold it in place? when I did remove the oil pump I do remember it not budging until I loosened that nut and backed the stud out a little, then it just pulled right out. thanks for the info Grady
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Post by cumminskiller on Feb 13, 2015 6:52:04 GMT -5
Please let us know what you find out as my truck is doing the same thing.
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Post by gradyc on Feb 13, 2015 12:04:59 GMT -5
The bolt and nut design is to make sure that the pump is tight. With just a pointed bolt without being able to adjust the length it might be too long and crack the oil pump housing or too short and let the pump move which would cause wear to the block and pump housing or breakage of the oil pipes.
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Post by wayne83 on Mar 3, 2015 13:11:26 GMT -5
I had to have my starter rebuilt so I haven't been able to watch oil pressure until last week. the problem is still there and I was about to pull the engine back out bug I thought I'd try and change the oil to rotella 10w30 just to see what it does. I have been driving it 2 days with the 10w30 in it and to my surprise it has had oil pressure instantly at start up. I can't say that is the reason though, as it was warmed up the last 2 days above 55. I'll continue to observe it over the next few days when it goes down to 10 degrees out again and see if has seemed to help it. anyone else run 10w30 in there's? the owners manual says you can it or 15w40 during the exact same temperatures all year, but I have always ran 15w40 and never had a problem with it until rebuilding the engine.
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