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Post by rangerrattler on Jan 21, 2016 10:42:29 GMT -5
Another update..
The cold starting seems to be an issue. That's strange..I really have to keep the juice up upon first firing up (which happens quickly) and the engine runs VERY rough during this time. If I only rely on the cold start cable, it is dying after a few seconds. Smoke/exhaust is very white and plentiful. Once I power through it and rev high for about 20-30 seconds, it stays running, but really rough until she's warmed up good.
What could be the difference now?? Temps this morning were quite warm outside, probably 50-55 degrees. Is the geometry of the valves working against me when the motor is cold now? When warmed up, the thing runs great, just like everything should, just little puffs of black smoke when I shove the throttle down for acceleration and no smoke at all when running along..
Thoughts?
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Post by rangerrattler on Jan 28, 2016 12:30:07 GMT -5
Another update.. The cold starting seems to be an issue. That's strange..I really have to keep the juice up upon first firing up (which happens quickly) and the engine runs VERY rough during this time. If I only rely on the cold start cable, it is dying after a few seconds. Smoke/exhaust is very white and plentiful. Once I power through it and rev high for about 20-30 seconds, it stays running, but really rough until she's warmed up good. What could be the difference now?? Temps this morning were quite warm outside, probably 50-55 degrees. Is the geometry of the valves working against me when the motor is cold now? When warmed up, the thing runs great, just like everything should, just little puffs of black smoke when I shove the throttle down for acceleration and no smoke at all when running along.. Thoughts? Bump..anybody have a thought on this latest issue?? One thought is that perhaps my cold start cable has stretched over time and I've "run out" of pull on the cable. I'm pretty sure I have seen instructions for adjusting it in the service manual, but haven't delved into it. But it does run a bit better (when still cold) when pulling it out and and I can in fact feel the increase in idle speed (and I'm assuming timing advance) when playing with it and pulling it a little and then more. Is it possible that I've simply not got enough pulling going on now? Also, of course everyone suggests glow plug checks, but I'm having a hard time thinking it could be plug-related when it was starting so well before this valve adjustment, for one, and for two, don't the glow plugs really only have an effect for the very initial firing of the engine? (this smoking seems to go on forever when it's running cold)
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 29, 2016 10:10:51 GMT -5
To check to verify the cable is "pulling" all the way, pull the cold start knob out all the way and lock it in place. Then open the hood and pull/lift up on the lever the cable is attached to on the side on the injection pump. When you pull/lift up on the lever and it doesn't move and engine rpm doesn't change, then the cable is fine. If it moves and the engine rpm picks up, then the cable needs looked at. The problem I have found with all my cables is where the 2 pieces of plastic tubing meet together right around the fuel filter and brake master cylinder. The plastic gets old and when you use the cable the lower plastic part pulls into the upper, thus not getting full pull on the injection pump lever. I pulled them back apart and put a small tack nail in between them to keep it from pulling together and that has seemed to fix mine everytime.
Now as for the glow plugs. There is a after glow feature on these trucks and some of these engines and if it's remotely cool out, they want thay after glow, at least both mine do. The way the glow plugs operate is 6 seconds at 12 volts(wait light only stays on 3 but if u listen at 6 you will hear the relay click) and then ounce the engine is running it drops to 4 to 5 volts until the engine reaches 86°F or if the vehicle starts to move. If your glow temp sensor is bad, the after glow won't work. You can check that by jumping the wires together on it, starting the truck, and check voltage at the glow plugs. If your after glow is working, then check each glow plug. You would be surprised how bad these start with just one bad glow plug. If you have no power for the afterglow with jumping the temp wires, then maybe the relay on the firewall is bad. The best relay I have found that works good is a plow mount relay and there cheap and mine has been working for 5 years. Do not get a starter relay, it will not work.
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Post by rangerrattler on Jan 29, 2016 10:29:30 GMT -5
To check to verify the cable is "pulling" all the way, pull the cold start knob out all the way and lock it in place. Then open the hood and pull/lift up on the lever the cable is attached to on the side on the injection pump. When you pull/lift up on the lever and it doesn't move and engine rpm doesn't change, then the cable is fine. If it moves and the engine rpm picks up, then the cable needs looked at. The problem I have found with all my cables is where the 2 pieces of plastic tubing meet together right around the fuel filter and brake master cylinder. The plastic gets old and when you use the cable the lower plastic part pulls into the upper, thus not getting full pull on the injection pump lever. I pulled them back apart and put a small tack nail in between them to keep it from pulling together and that has seemed to fix mine everytime. Now as for the glow plugs. There is a after glow feature on these trucks and some of these engines and if it's remotely cool out, they want thay after glow, at least both mine do. The way the glow plugs operate is 6 seconds at 12 volts(wait light only stays on 3 but if u listen at 6 you will hear the relay click) and then ounce the engine is running it drops to 4 to 5 volts until the engine reaches 86°F or if the vehicle starts to move. If your glow temp sensor is bad, the after glow won't work. You can check that by jumping the wires together on it, starting the truck, and check voltage at the glow plugs. If your after glow is working, then check each glow plug. You would be surprised how bad these start with just one bad glow plug. If you have no power for the afterglow with jumping the temp wires, then maybe the relay on the firewall is bad. The best relay I have found that works good is a plow mount relay and there cheap and mine has been working for 5 years. Do not get a starter relay, it will not work. Thanks for the tips, Wayne! I also got a good earful of advice from an old diesel mechanic last night, who told me to definitely eliminate the possibility that my fuel filter is clogged up. I'm not honestly sure, but I may have used some B20 biofuel mix lately. He said that stuff will really clean gunk out of a tank and possibly ram a bunch of sludge into my filter just on the first tank. And the more I think about the symptoms, it does in fact feel like a fuel delivery problem. And he also said to take a laser temp gauge and check that each cylinder is heating at about the same rate as it warms up. I like that idea..all about process of elimination. That's a great description on the cable issues/possibilities, Much appreciated B
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 29, 2016 11:46:19 GMT -5
If you have any doubts of the fuel filter being plugged, just change it. There not really expensive. I once bought a 2.2 ranger from a guy who couldn't get it to run for than a minute or 2 and I told him to change the fuel filter. He said he "cleaned it out"...no clue how that is possible since it's a spin on filter, but he refused to buy a new one for it. I ended up buying from him, spun a new filter on it and drove it 46 miles home and still driving it today, 4 years later. Just my 2 cents on if you ever think you have a fuel problem. Also, the water/fuel separator in the frame. Take it off and completly clean it. You can get the large top o ring from a john deere dealership, they had one on hand that is. Those things never get drained and you will not believe how nasty they get inside.
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Post by rangerrattler on Jan 29, 2016 11:51:32 GMT -5
If you have any doubts of the fuel filter being plugged, just change it. There not really expensive. I once bought a 2.2 ranger from a guy who couldn't get it to run for than a minute or 2 and I told him to change the fuel filter. He said he "cleaned it out"...no clue how that is possible since it's a spin on filter, but he refused to buy a new one for it. I ended up buying from him, spun a new filter on it and drove it 46 miles home and still driving it today, 4 years later. Just my 2 cents on if you ever think you have a fuel problem. Also, the water/fuel separator in the frame. Take it off and completly clean it. You can get the large top o ring from a john deere dealership, they had one on hand that is. Those things never get drained and you will not believe how nasty they get inside. Yeah I'm embarrassed that I've not gone ahead and done that by now! Also embarrassed that I've looked and looked for the water/fuel separator on numerous occasions in the past but don't have a picture of where it is. I need to put her back up on the lift and get the book out, unless someone wants to give me a good description? Is it under pressure or is it just a simple matter of unscrewing and it drops off?
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 29, 2016 12:01:11 GMT -5
The water separator is located right underneath the drivers seat, mounted on the inside or the frame rail. It looks like a aluminum bowl with 2 wires going to the top. The drain cable is the t handle located right behind the drivers side or the seat. If you follow that cable down out of the bottom of the cab it goes into the lower portion of the water separator. Try pulling on the t handle and see if anything will drain out. The cable tends to get froze in the housing pretty good so it might be a fight to get it to come off. It is not under pressure but you need to plug the fuel lines once you pull them off because they will not stop draining.
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Post by cumminskiller on Feb 1, 2016 6:58:29 GMT -5
Hey Brian! I was having the same issue. Turned out one of my fuel lines had a small crack and was sucking air. Very hard to start. You may want to look into that.
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Post by rangerrattler on Feb 5, 2016 11:44:32 GMT -5
Update..so I changed the fuel filter..no change. I finally threw up my hands and found a shop with an excited diesel mechanic nearby. He said the linkages on the fuel pump were getting "stuck together", if that makes any sense, upon cold start. So basically it was adding fuel both at the top and bottom pump inputs, where it was supposed to only be adding at the cold start/bottom one. Does that make any sense? He tweaked some things and it is better, albeit smoking a lot (diesel) but she is not dying. He also said yeah, it's just my wheel bearing on the right side that's causing the shimmy. Well that's embarrassing, I thought I'd not found any looseness.
Anyway, he was also pretty down on the fuel pump, as he said it just appears it's pretty tired. So I'll bring him my spare before we try sending it out for a rebuild(after I search here for the place to have that done, haha). He also mentioned turbo and wants to play with that. He loves the engine. He also said we had some of the valves too tight and a couple too loose still. WTHeck? I guess he was able to get the points of open/close at TDC more accurately than we did a couple weeks ago.
But at least it is running cold, now. That's a step in the right direction.
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