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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 23, 2015 22:12:16 GMT -5
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Post by aggieengnr on Mar 24, 2015 10:02:55 GMT -5
I'm anxious to see it running! Definitely keep us updated.
I have a question for you. With the turbo mounted as you have it, how will it fit under the hood?
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 24, 2015 20:57:06 GMT -5
Most likely it will not fit under the hood, but being as the turbo is quite big for the amount of room in the engine compartment, I will probably take and cut a hole in the hood and get some sheet metal and dome it around the turbo. I would rather cut a hole in the hood than have clearance issues with the heater box and firewall. Thanks for the interest!
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Post by gradyc on Mar 25, 2015 4:52:23 GMT -5
I see the oil feed line to the turbo but it looks like you don't have the oil drain from the turbo hooked to the pan yet.
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Post by aggieengnr on Mar 25, 2015 11:07:08 GMT -5
Most likely it will not fit under the hood, but being as the turbo is quite big for the amount of room in the engine compartment, I will probably take and cut a hole in the hood and get some sheet metal and dome it around the turbo. I would rather cut a hole in the hood than have clearance issues with the heater box and firewall. Thanks for the interest! Gotcha. I thought that might be your plan. Keep up the good work; I'm very anxious to see your results. If all goes well, I'll be doing the same thing to mine following your build. |
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Post by wayne83 on Mar 25, 2015 16:22:22 GMT -5
that turbo would have fit below the manifold between the heater box and frame rail just fine. that's where mine is. I'm using a tdo4-10 turbo but it's about the same size of my Garrett t3/4 turbo I have in my garage. it is a tight fit but if you measure everything out and make a whole new manifold you can mount it lower and still have air conditioning
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 25, 2015 20:37:53 GMT -5
I see the oil feed line to the turbo but it looks like you don't have the oil drain from the turbo hooked to the pan yet. Correct, in the pictures I didnt not have the drained hooked to the pan, I had the camera with me when I came home from work and took some pictures since it was pretty much finished. |
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 25, 2015 20:39:19 GMT -5
Most likely it will not fit under the hood, but being as the turbo is quite big for the amount of room in the engine compartment, I will probably take and cut a hole in the hood and get some sheet metal and dome it around the turbo. I would rather cut a hole in the hood than have clearance issues with the heater box and firewall. Thanks for the interest! Gotcha. I thought that might be your plan. Keep up the good work; I'm very anxious to see your results. If all goes well, I'll be doing the same thing to mine following your build. Will keep everyone posted for sure, should be test firing tomorrow after work, gonna finish up the test stand tonight. |
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 25, 2015 20:46:45 GMT -5
that turbo would have fit below the manifold between the heater box and frame rail just fine. that's where mine is. I'm using a tdo4-10 turbo but it's about the same size of my Garrett t3/4 turbo I have in my garage. it is a tight fit but if you measure everything out and make a whole new manifold you can mount it lower and still have air conditioning I did have the measurements when I took the engine out but that was last summer lol. I would have but I'm in a rush to get it back together now, so I was just piecing it together with what i had, to me it turned out pretty good considering how screwed up the turbo flange was, someone had take a grinding wheel and cut it in several different places and I needed another inch of 6.5 turbo flange to make it work on the ranger, i welded it all back together then ground and polished the welds.. Cant tell it was welded back up  Yeah my whole A/c system is screwed, and the local shop wanted 300$ to redo it, I'm not to worried about it but if I put the engine in another truck I'm gonna make my own manifold and everything. |
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 28, 2015 1:16:41 GMT -5
Sorry about the little progress lately guys, was gonna test fire her tonight but I almost got ran off the road then stabbed, fudged up my hand in the brawl, so test fire should be tomorrow, been getting interviewed by the cops all night. Test stand just needs a few little things adjusted.
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 29, 2015 0:42:15 GMT -5
I got her running tonight for about an hour and a half, I cant post the videos to youtube from my phone since I dont have wifi so Ill try to get them uploaded tomorrow.. Oil pressure was really good, hot with some throttle it'd hit 65 psi, hot idle was 40, 18:1 I think should work out good, it was 26* in our shop (had the doors open to air out) and for probably the first 5 mins it wouldnt idle properly, but after that it ran just fine now granted it was still most likely trying to get air out of the system. Sadly my old radiator was shot so it blew out a core as soon as pressure built in the cooling system. I did stop and start the engine sever times after it was warmed up, fired right up the way it should.
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 29, 2015 16:43:08 GMT -5
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Post by gradyc on Mar 29, 2015 22:39:55 GMT -5
After it warmed up a bit it sounded really good. Nice work.
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Post by aggieengnr on Mar 30, 2015 10:13:08 GMT -5
*thumbs up!* Keep up the good work!
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Post by widetrack212 on Mar 30, 2015 14:43:58 GMT -5
Thanks guys! Just out of curiosity is it just me or does the engine idle down really slow? Someone mightve played with the fuel screw a bit too much before.. It still has the metal wire on it from factory though.. If you think its still good Ill crank her up a bit more.
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Yeah my whole A/c system is screwed, and the local shop wanted 300$ to redo it, I'm not to worried about it but if I put the engine in another truck I'm gonna make my own manifold and everything.