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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Feb 20, 2015 11:07:29 GMT -5
Question: How quick am I going to ruin my waterpump bearing if I run the fan clutch locked up? Looking for temporary solutions short of the electric fan. May be they can be rebuilt?
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Post by gradyc on Feb 20, 2015 19:25:49 GMT -5
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Post by wayne83 on Feb 20, 2015 22:25:47 GMT -5
fan clutches are rebuild-able. it cost some money but they can be done if you want to keep everything oem. there is a post about it here www.therangerstation.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-141222.htmlthe website he mentioned he had it rebuilt at is www.kirkconnellcorvettes.com/#2682I have thought about having mine rebuilt but it's quite steep at 225. I have been using a imperial part number 21508 for awhile now and it works ok. you have to do slight modification to the the 4 stubs where the fan bolts to the clutch. you just need to shave the ends just enough so it fits down into the fan blade. where the 4 bolts that attach the clutch to the water pump go they are just slotted groves but once all 4 bolts are started it seems to to mount up pretty good and not off centered or anything. it's been just a over a year that I have had it on mine and the biggest complaint I guess I have is it makes it seem to run a little cooler, most noticeably if the temperature is below 60 outside, but during the summer in 100+ days I never had any problems with it.
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Post by wayne83 on Feb 20, 2015 22:29:49 GMT -5
sorry the imperial number is 215085
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Feb 24, 2015 19:08:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies, guys. My current attack angle is to modify another fan clutch i.e. find one short enough (the gas fans are much longer) and manufacture mounting bracket adapter. Locking up the clutch is also going to rob power, and I'm not worried about testing the new powerplant out without one in these cold temps.
I'll have a look into the imperial universal fan. Thanks Wayne83. On the ford diesel fan I have anyway, the valve is controlled with a bi-metal plate that is supposed to insert and release the pin valve actuator. And it reads on the gas fan, to "store facing down", unlike I did, so the silicone or whatever inside doesn't leak out.
What is in the Mazda?
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Post by tempforce on Feb 25, 2015 11:45:11 GMT -5
have you considered, leaving the fan off, installing a thermostat regulated electric fan...
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Mar 7, 2015 22:50:43 GMT -5
I have only for a moment. There was a fan kit available at the parts store. How would you suggest going about it, tempforce?
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Post by dangerranger on Mar 8, 2015 9:11:11 GMT -5
I used a fan and clutch off of an old Toyota 22re turbo motor. The only thing I had to do was put it in the milling machine and enlarge the holes. A drill press won't work though cuz the new ones overlap the old holes a tiny bit. Works great though. Fan has curved blades and one more than the original ranger did.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Mar 16, 2015 9:40:07 GMT -5
Great tip dangerreanger. I'm going to check the fan on an old 4runner I inherited with a NA 22re, that is, after the snow receeds to the point I would only have to shovel a few feet. HOpe I can get away without a fan until then.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on May 14, 2015 13:29:50 GMT -5
I was able to use the 22re fan also. I milled outward from the existing holes using a saw file in a drill with the old fan adapter plate serving as guide - I aligned and clamped to the fan base with 3 vice-grips. Worked great and now I have a fan that seems to be doing fine.
But I'm trying to determine why I've had a noticeable loss of power. I don't think it's related to the fan (I tried removing it) although do notice it runs a little cooler. I tried some fuel conditioner and some different fuel without improvement. Checked if it was sucking air since I had also dropped the tank around the same time. But I've put a clear line from the fuel heater to the filter and don't see much air. Also installed a vacuum gauge between the IP and filter with no noticeable restriction. I haven't put a clear line on the return yet to see if air might be entering after the filter. I suppose it could still starve for fuel due to a restriction like a kink in the hoses
Could a restricted return line cause power loss? What are some common causes of sudden power loss? I'm tempted to see it as related to the fuel system since it coincided with the tank removal. But who knows what kinds of things can develop suddenly. A sudden shift in my perception seems unlikely. Doesn't seem to be bad fuel. I have no water fuel separator. Could water have damaged injectors or pump? Can I tell from temp. gun reading if one cylinder is bad? I find myself pumping on the accelerator thinking it will help. I don't see any vacuum increase under load. Does someone care to venture any guesses or offer some directions of inquiry? Thanks!
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