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Post by widetrack212 on Jan 21, 2015 17:46:39 GMT -5
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Post by gradyc on Jan 22, 2015 0:42:26 GMT -5
I saw that add too. The manifold looks like the one off the mazda b2200 modified to bolt a turbo on. If it is you couldn't use the AC on the ranger because the evaporator housing would interfere with bolting the turbo on.
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Post by widetrack212 on Jan 22, 2015 8:58:18 GMT -5
I saw that add too. The manifold looks like the one off the mazda b2200 modified to bolt a turbo on. If it is you couldn't use the AC on the ranger because the evaporator housing would interfere with bolting the turbo on. I was thinking that it would interfere with the evaporator housing cause I know on mine I'm gonna have to put the turbo up pretty high and have it in the center of the manifold to clear it, and I might have to cut a hole in the hood and put a piece of sheet metal in that is domed to make room for the compressor housing of the turbo. I wonder if that came out of a ranger or a mazda, I thought he advertised it as coming out of an 83 ranger, I could be wrong though.
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 22, 2015 13:02:09 GMT -5
I have no idea how to get pictures posted on here but on my ranger I have a turbo in it with factory air conditioning still. the turbo is mounted right between the block and frame/air conditioning box just below the exhaust manifold. if someone can tell me how to post pictures on here I'll show you it
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Post by widetrack212 on Jan 22, 2015 22:31:45 GMT -5
Click reply instead of just using the one at the bottom of the tread, click "Add Attachment" click "add files" go through and find up to 3 pictures that you want to post, it'll have a green progress bar, then once they've loaded click insert then you can click done and post it!
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 23, 2015 9:05:37 GMT -5
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 23, 2015 9:09:13 GMT -5
here is my oil drain and feed line. drain is a 5/8 45 degree pipe fitting welded to the oil then have some marine jb weld over it so for safe measure against leaking. I obviously put that on when the oil pan was off the engine. the feed line i used a double banjo bolt off the bypass oil feed line. the turbo is also water cooled so the smaller hoses are antifreeze lines, which i need to re work because i dont like them going straight up and down like they are.
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 23, 2015 9:10:11 GMT -5
thanks for letting me know how to post the pictures. never would have thought to press the reply button instead of just using this quick reply box
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Post by gradyc on Jan 23, 2015 12:10:40 GMT -5
The Ford manifold has the exhaust dump on the front of the manifold.The one on e-bay looks like the Mazda manifold with the dump in the rear. That would put the turbo by the firewall and interfere with the evaporator box.
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Post by widetrack212 on Jan 23, 2015 15:27:07 GMT -5
I don't know what which filter is which, but I was thinking about tying my turbo drain into the piece that the oil filter on the passenger side of the engine dumps into, if that would work? I like where you got oil from for the turbo! Where is that on the engine? Driver or passenger side? I thought about putting a T fitting where the oil pressure sending unit is, atleast I think that's what it is, It's mounted on the frame and has an oil line going to it.. Nice setup Could someone tell me which oil filter is which and what's the point of having 2? I never could figure that out... For extra filtering capabilities?
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Post by wayne83 on Jan 23, 2015 17:43:17 GMT -5
the main full flow filter is the one on drivers side next to the oil pressure sending unit. the oil filter on the front passenger side of the engine is the bypass filter. Someone else on here has explained the benefit of having a bpyass filter but i cant remember what it was, but i do know some people actually add bypass filters to there vehicles as certain vendors carry kits for that. The small little pipe nipple on the oil pan that the bypass oil filter returns to is way to small for a turbo drain. Ive read you need at least 5/8 drain for any turbo, but dont quote me on that. The pipe fitting that is welded to my oil pan right next to that small pipe nipple is my 5/8 turbo drain. The turbo is maybe 2 or 3 inches higher than it, and the drain hose from the turbo to that fitting is maybe 6 inches long. The oil feed line to my turbo is tied in off the braided line that runs to the bypass oil filter. I used a double banjo bolt with 3 copper washers, which is how the mazda engine feeds oil to its bypass oil fitler and vaccum pump i believe? so that was where i got the idea to find a double banjo bolt for my oil feed, otherwise my previous turbo set up was ran from the oil sending unit
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Post by widetrack212 on Jan 24, 2015 16:57:16 GMT -5
the main full flow filter is the one on drivers side next to the oil pressure sending unit. the oil filter on the front passenger side of the engine is the bypass filter. Someone else on here has explained the benefit of having a bpyass filter but i cant remember what it was, but i do know some people actually add bypass filters to there vehicles as certain vendors carry kits for that. The small little pipe nipple on the oil pan that the bypass oil filter returns to is way to small for a turbo drain. Ive read you need at least 5/8 drain for any turbo, but dont quote me on that. The pipe fitting that is welded to my oil pan right next to that small pipe nipple is my 5/8 turbo drain. The turbo is maybe 2 or 3 inches higher than it, and the drain hose from the turbo to that fitting is maybe 6 inches long. The oil feed line to my turbo is tied in off the braided line that runs to the bypass oil filter. I used a double banjo bolt with 3 copper washers, which is how the mazda engine feeds oil to its bypass oil fitler and vaccum pump i believe? so that was where i got the idea to find a double banjo bolt for my oil feed, otherwise my previous turbo set up was ran from the oil sending unit Thanks for explaining that, I always get confused by that. Now I know not to use that as my oil drain, I'll just weld one in. I was gonna do what you did on your previous turbo setup, I was gonna use oil from the sending unit, but the double banjo bolt on the braided line to the bypass filter sounds like a much better idea.
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