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Post by 83rangerguy on May 12, 2014 13:41:50 GMT -5
Does anyone have a detailed write-up explaining valve adjustment? I'm a newb at this so I want to get it right the first time, any tips or tricks you may have would be welcome as well. The PO said he last adjusted them nearly 20,000 miles ago! so I figure it's high time I just get in there and do it. The truck runs great as is, and is getting around 35mpg, and will cruise on the highway doing 70mph all day long. can I expect any noticeable changes after adjustment? I'm half tempted just to leave well enough alone but I've heard valve adjustment is pretty important on these engines.
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Post by phillip.brannon on May 12, 2014 14:35:21 GMT -5
1. Warm the engine to normal temp.
2. Remove cylinder head cover.
3. Tighten the head bolts. (80-85 ft.lb)
4. Set the piston of No.1 cylinder to top dead center(compression)
and check/adjust valve clearance as needed on this cylinder/valve
combination only: Intake only on No.1 and No.2 cylinders, Exhaust
only on No.1 and No.3 cylinders.
5. Turn the crankshaft once (360 degrees), bringing No.4 piston to TDC on the compression stroke, and adjust the following valves: Intake only on No.3 and No.4 cylinders, Exhaust only on No.2 and No.4 cylinders.
Clearance on all valves is 0.012 in. (cold)
Although the book says warm the engine, I would set the valves while the engine is cold.
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Post by 83rangerguy on May 12, 2014 17:38:27 GMT -5
Thanks. Does anyone know of a source for the valve cover gasket? the only parts store here that could get one is NAPA, and they have to order it from the factory. They want $17 plus $13 freight! $30 seems pretty pricey for a flimsy rubber gasket, any other options?
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Post by montana on May 12, 2014 20:18:38 GMT -5
Rockauto.com $9 plus $10 shipping. Saves you $11
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Post by moroza on May 12, 2014 22:57:50 GMT -5
If the manual and the under-hood sticker say to adjust on a warm engine, that means you adjust them with a warm engine. Not negotiable. No ifs, ands, or buts. The lash will change with temperature (I don't know in which direction) and you risk smashing a valve or piston by setting it wrong.
I got my VC gasket off RockAuto, but you could also try eBay.
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Post by phillip.brannon on May 13, 2014 10:11:23 GMT -5
yeah sorry...it should be warm...i just copied and pasted this off of another post on here adn forgot to change that...def warm the engine up first
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Post by rob on Aug 31, 2015 7:43:57 GMT -5
Does anybody have the head bolt torque sequence pattern? It's almost always from the center out but this is my first diesel. Thanks.
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Post by DieselDangerRanger on Aug 31, 2015 10:37:44 GMT -5
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Post by rob on Aug 31, 2015 13:14:17 GMT -5
Thank you DDR. You are indeed a priceless asset to this community. Much appreciated. Rob
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Post by rob on Sept 3, 2015 14:38:02 GMT -5
If I read this correctly, it states to torque the head bolts with the engine warm. But, set the valve clearance to 0.012" COLD. 1. Warm the engine to normal temp. 2. Remove cylinder head cover. 3. Tighten the head bolts. (80-85 ft.lb) 4. Set the piston of No.1 cylinder to top dead center(compression) and check/adjust valve clearance as needed on this cylinder/valve combination only: Intake only on No.1 and No.2 cylinders, Exhaust only on No.1 and No.3 cylinders. 5. Turn the crankshaft once (360 degrees), bringing No.4 piston to TDC on the compression stroke, and adjust the following valves: Intake only on No.3 and No.4 cylinders, Exhaust only on No.2 and No.4 cylinders. Clearance on all valves is 0.012 in. (cold) Although the book says warm the engine, I would set the valves while the engine is cold. |
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Post by rob on Sept 5, 2015 13:23:41 GMT -5
If I read this correctly, it states to torque the head bolts with the engine warm. But, set the valve clearance to 0.012" COLD. Nope! Under the hood it clearly says (valve lash 0.012" WARM). |
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