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Post by mysp00nistoobig on Aug 17, 2009 13:35:35 GMT -5
Hello, everyone. recently I purchased a 1982 Mazda B2200 from a friend. We took it home it ran great for about a month. Just last week we started to notice a problem. It would turn over turn over and turn over but never would start. It currently has no glow plugs that work, as I'm guessing the original setup has gone south. The person we bought it from hooked the glow plugs straight in from the battery with a switch in the cab.
Cutting to the chase...
I removed the straight glow plug connection from the battery, and the thing still has a horrible time starting even in this 70+ degree weather we are currently having. I did manage yesterday to get it started, but when I went out today to start it I had no luck what-so-ever, I popped the hood and could see where the battery (negative) had been sitting melted part of the coolant tank. The wire is seriously hot to the touch, I'm assuming from cranking?
Any advice would be helpful as I am at a complete loss.
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johno
Full Member
Posts: 220
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Post by johno on Aug 18, 2009 14:22:10 GMT -5
Glowplugs are necessary. Remember that they are "6-second" glow plugs, meaning they are only designed to receive full power for 6-seconds in cold weather, then cut back to about 6 volts to maintain temperature. In warmer weather a sensor would have told the controller circuit when to cut back the power, but you need to make that decision yourself now.
Mine normally starts the first turn, when using glow plugs and the start knob. If one glow plugs fails, the engine might take two or three turns to start. If two are burned out, then it may not easily start at all in cold weather. If I have to crank for more than a couple seconds, there is something seriously wrong.
I almost always pull out the start knob in all weather for starting, even hot. The only time I don't pull it out is if I've just shut down the engine within the last few minutes.
NAPA can get the glowplugs. They list 3 brands. I don't remember which ones I prefer. I'll try to remember to check and will post them here. They all cost about the same ($24 each), even with my discount.
Cheers,
JohnO
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Post by tempforce on Aug 18, 2009 17:07:33 GMT -5
excessive cranking will melt poor connections
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Post by mysp00nistoobig on Aug 18, 2009 17:24:44 GMT -5
I that's what I think wound up happening I just today removed the cable from the truck and it was melted and just in seriously bad condition in some spots.
Does anyone know the tire size for this truck by the way? The tires on it now just look wrong for this truck.
I was considering buying a "glow plug kit" from a website I was looking at yesterday anyone have any thoughts on that?
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Post by mysp00nistoobig on Aug 18, 2009 17:36:32 GMT -5
Additional note, the glow plugs that are in it right now - found the empty boxes in the tool box - are NGK Y-107R, are these any good? I've read in a few other forums, and saw that some people had some issues with cheaper glow plugs.
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Post by tempforce on Aug 18, 2009 17:57:41 GMT -5
whats the link for the glow kit.
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Post by DieselDavo on Aug 18, 2009 20:13:19 GMT -5
I've used NGKs and they worked OK. The master Glow plug relay is on the bell housing just above the starter. If you don't hear it snap on with the key then the connection is bad on the small wire. Common problem...
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Post by cumminskiller on Aug 18, 2009 20:18:19 GMT -5
I recently put and old starter in mine while I fixed the cable on the current starter and that that old one cranked so slow it had a hard time starting the engine. I put the other starter back in and it doesn't even turn over once before it starts. With the old starter I definatley had to run the glow plugs, but with this other starter it is only necissary for the first initial start of the day, in the summer. Just another option for you to look into. If a diesel isn't spinning fast enough it will have a hard time starting if it will start at all.
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Post by mysp00nistoobig on Aug 19, 2009 0:56:59 GMT -5
www.fourthgen.net/timerscartEPS.shtmlThat's the web addy for the kit. I sent them an email asking about it, they said it should work on the type of truck I have. @ DieselDavo what do you mean by snap on? The knob that you pulled out and turned for the glow plugs is just pretty much tore up the only thing left of is is the silver cable.
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Post by DieselDavo on Aug 19, 2009 11:51:40 GMT -5
It makes a snap sound under the hood more of a clunk in the cab when the key is turned on.
This relay has to handle the 80 amps for the 4 glow plugs. My truck won't start on a warm day without glow plugs. If you clean the small wire connection on the relay over the starter and it still doesn't start check the connection going to the fuel cut relay on the starter end of the intector pump. All the connections on these old trucks need cleaning, mostly the ones under the hood. I have found that vasoline or even motor oil will slow the corrosion.
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Post by DieselDavo on Aug 19, 2009 11:55:29 GMT -5
BTW: The Knobs advances the Injector Pump timing and has no effect on the glow plugs.
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Post by tempforce on Aug 19, 2009 17:26:25 GMT -5
and if that cable isn't working the truck will be much harder to start.
you can get a replacement cable from a tractor or truck supply place. get a locking accessory throttle cable.
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Post by cumminskiller on Aug 20, 2009 5:58:02 GMT -5
Hey DieselDavo is it common to hear this "snap" until the truck warms up? Mine does it until the truck warms up.
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Post by redneckrigger on Aug 20, 2009 17:08:55 GMT -5
Make sure she's primed up good too. No fuel = no start. Melted connections are hot from prolonged starter use. Replacing the wire will help your starter turn faster, and in turn make your motor easier to crank. Try checking you glow plugs with an ohmmeter to avoid removing them.
MAKE sure it is primed. My second mazda almost always has to be primed back up after sitting for a while.
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Post by DieselDavo on Aug 21, 2009 7:19:47 GMT -5
Different sound. That one is the relay next to the wiper motor turning off the intake manifold heater. It only works if the motor is below 80 degrees F.
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